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Roaming Around London

Charlie Greene

Breakfast: If Paris has croissants and Lisbon has pastéis de nata, then Rome’s submission for ‘most delicious baked goods’ must be maritozzi: brioche buns split open and filled with sweetened cream. Historically, maritozzi were a symbol of affection Italian men gave to their lovers during Lent — take a leaf out of their book and buy your sweetheart one from Bethnal Green’s FORNO bakery. They’re easily the best in the city, infused with lemon and olive oil.


Lunch: Everybody has their dim sum restaurant of choice, a matter of preference dictated by strict loyalties and even stricter rivalries. For The Londoner’s money, the best is Dumplings’ Legendon Gerrard Street, right in the heart of Chinatown. The neighborhood’s website claims that the restaurant has “done for soup dumplings what Pelé did for football,” while we’re a little unsure what that means, it’s undeniable that their xiao long bao are some of the best in the city. 


Drinks: Harringay’s Bonne Route wine bar has only been open for two months, but it’s already amassed a committed fan club. Launched by the team behind the beloved north London deli Middle Lane Market, the bar sells both natural and traditional-process wine by the glass and the bottle. It will host upcoming events such as a water-kefir workshop and Georgian wine-tasting night (the enology trend of 2025).


Dinner: Buzzy, loud, and beautifully hectic, Soho’s Speedboat Bar is a riot. With its egg-yolk yellow walls, electric blue chairs, and canteen-style metal tables, it’s hard not to feel the joy — and even harder once you’ve cracked open an ice-cold Singha and tasted the ‘Suki sauce’ cellophane noodles. Our advice: get together with a group of your silliest, funniest friends and order the sharing set menu — at £35 per head, it’s one of the best deals in central.

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