The Unruly Pig in Suffolk, UK, has been named the country's finest gastropub three years in a row.
A good gastropub should do two things: serve upmarket food that can compete with the fanciest of restaurants but also maintain the personality and unfussy aura that makes a great British pub.
It’s a tricky balance to strike, but one that the Unruly Pig, led by chef patron Dave Wall (formerly Bibendum and Claridges), seems to have nailed. That’s probably why it's been crowned Estrella Damm’s best gastropub in the UK for the third year running.
Between the exposed beams and cozy fireplace, the first thing you notice walking into the 16th-century inn is the playful, irreverent decor. There’s a ginormous frame of Lego mini figures at the main entrance and a ‘Last Supper ’-esque portrait of The Sopranos cast above our table. It feels like the Unruly Pig is assuring you that, yes, the food is fancy, but look, we don’t take things too seriously.
After we take our seats beneath Tony, Carmela, and their brood, we start with the Unruly Dozen, a tray of 12 oysters in four forms: natural, deep-fried, grilled, and pickled. I’m generally not one to drool over oysters, but these paired with a fizzing glass of Langham Culver? I’m still dreaming about them.
The natural oysters are made for gorgeously salty, buttery mouthfuls, while their soft seawater flavor is balanced neatly with the embellishments added to the fried, grilled, and pickled options. The latter – delightfully vinegary and topped with fresh dill and a small spoon of caviar – was a personal favorite.
Then, Italian white onion velouté arrives luxuriously smooth and musky, coupled with a glass of Reisling. The chewy Taleggio crouton bathing in the middle perhaps raised the dish’s saltiness a tad too much. My dining partner went for the gorgeously smoky and soft barbecued octopus – the prettiest dish of the evening. It lands on our table charred to pure perfection, encircled in a delicate pink ring of gel, and accompanied by a creamy anchovy emulsion and jammy pickled onion.
Regarding mains, a steamed wild halibut, paired with dots of mussel and a foamy green ramekin of potato and seaweed ragu, was impeccably cooked, breaking up into large tender flakes. And, coming highly recommended by our server, the roasted mallard breast with braised leg pie and huntsman sauce (which utilizes as many parts of the animal as possible) is the perfect example of Unruly’s genuine commitment to sustainability.
A chocolate hazelnut tart concludes our evening. It’s a welcome sweet treat with a satisfying level of richness, but for me, it’s got nothing on the courses that came before it.
The Unruly Pig switches up its menu constantly, so you’re unlikely ever to get the same thing twice (besides the oysters – they’re not going anywhere). But you’re in insanely good hands.
Throughout the evening, our servers show off their intimate knowledge of everything the gastropub’s bar and kitchen has to offer – in a genuine way, not just like they’ve memorized from a script. They’re warm and passionate, and they embody the conviviality that makes every good pub great.
